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Author Topic: Trying to get a level 8 Ash  (Read 6295 times)  Share 

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Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« on: 24 Nov 16 / 11:36 AM »
Hi, I'm trying to achieve a level 8 ash blonde.
I've tried on some strands before using it on my head. I actually used my moms hair since she had it cut recently and I saved some strands, but my hair is very similar.
The natural hair is a level 5 approximately and I've tried a few things but I never get the right color.
The first thing I did was dye it directly with 30 vol (since it was 3 levels of lift) with Igora 8-1. The result was a level 7 ORANGE WTF.
The second trial was bleaching with igora vario blond extra power and 30 vol 45 mins until it was pale orange and then dye 8-1 with 10 vol developer.
Finally I tried 8-11 after bleach and it looks a little bit darker, but not asher.
It looks like it's not the colour i'm looking for.

What should I do? Blue from ash was supposed to neutralize orange. If I bleach it to yellow I can't dye it with ash because it would look green...
any ideas?

Photos
the first photo is showing the 8-1 (no bleach) strand next to the natural hair

The second photo is:
Left: bleach 30 vol 45 mins
Medium: after bleach 8-11, 10 vol
Right: after bleach 8-1, 10 vol

Third photo is the color I would like to achieve
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #1 on: 24 Nov 16 / 01:48 PM »
For starters, you need to strand test your own hair. It doesnt matter if your hair is very similar color to your mom's, your porosity, thickness and pigment stubborness will be different as everyone has different hair. What works for her hair may not work for yours at all.

I cant really help with obtaining that color as i have never done that color myself but i can say you need to get all the orange out or it will not go that beige color you want. I think you will need to go lighter and then slowly tone it because as you said it could go green.
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #2 on: 24 Nov 16 / 02:19 PM »
I agree, if it's not your hair, it's telling you nothing.

Also, did you keep the test covered and warm?
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #3 on: 24 Nov 16 / 05:23 PM »
Thank you for the answers xD. Of course im gonna strand test my hair before, but i did this to get an idea of the final result even if it' not very accurate.
What do you mean by slowly toning? I only have igora royal 8-1 y 8-11. Do I need any other dye/ toneR?
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #4 on: 24 Nov 16 / 06:38 PM »
Did you keep the sample covered and warm (body temp) as it processed?

But again, there isn't much point in us taking time going into detail until you've done a test on your own hair :) If it's the same, great, but there's a very good chance it'll be different.

But remember to answer my first question, it's a simple mistake a lot of people make when strand testing!

when she says slowly toning, she means gradually building colour with a semi dye toner until you get the right one, rather than going headlong in with a permanent and ending up with green.The ones you're talking about probably won't work on orange anyway (honestly, I don't know much about the numbers on permanent dyes, so I don't know, I'm going by experience). You need it a lot paler with no orange to get that colour.

And I still went into more detail than I meant to there lol

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #5 on: 24 Nov 16 / 07:46 PM »
Just to add; the blue is neutralising the orange there, but the orange is dark enough that it is neutralising it to make a shade of brown.

Your hair needs to be lightened more in order to achieve the beige blonde you are hoping for.

Is your hair completely virgin (not had any other dyes on it) right now? (also, was the hair you used for the strand test?). Just to repeat what the others said, it's completely pointless to use somebody else's hair for a strand test as their hair may look like yours but will not behave the same when being processed.
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #6 on: 24 Nov 16 / 08:09 PM »
I'd be surprised if there were much blue in a level 8 dye. Good chance I'm wrong though.

And yeah, neutralising orange that dark (even the lightest is still actually quite dark on the ginger scale) gives a mid brown.

Good call on the question about previous dyes too. If it's previously dyed it is very likely to have orange staining.
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #7 on: 25 Nov 16 / 03:13 AM »
Yes, I kept it warm most of the time, sometimes in my pocket or next to a source of heat. And yes, there is absolutely no dye in the strands or in my hair.
Last dye (bright red) I shove my head to let it grow and start over  :laugh:
I'll try to lighten more to see how it looks. I'll update the result just in case it could be useful for someone trying to get the same color.
Thanks!!
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #8 on: 25 Nov 16 / 08:06 AM »
Good to know it was kept warm. Most people forget that, so it's important to rule it out :)

So your hair is dyed? If so, it really is gong to behave totally differently to your mum's. Especially red, it's going to pull even more orange.
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #9 on: 25 Nov 16 / 09:59 AM »
no!! haha. As I said, it's fully natural, I cut it at like 3mm and now is like 10 cm long  :D
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #10 on: 25 Nov 16 / 10:19 AM »
Oh. Right, sorry, I didn't realise you had said that and I can't see it in your posts now.

Edit. Ok, I see now. It didn't read correctly as shaved is misspelt to shove. I'm assuming you're not a native speaker of English as you're in Spain, so I apologise for not taking more care in reading.

A couple more things.

Is the bleach powder new or old?

Have you ever bleached (or more correctly really) your mother ever bleached her hair and got anything lighter than an orange shade? It might just be that you have so much red in your hair that the bleach can't remove it all before it stops working/time is up.
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #11 on: 25 Nov 16 / 11:14 AM »

Have you ever bleached (or more correctly really) your mother ever bleached her hair and got anything lighter than an orange shade? It might just be that you have so much red in your hair that the bleach can't remove it all before it stops working/time is up.

That is an excellent question. Bleach is very important and can usually be the cause of not getting the correct color.  When I first started bleaching I used normal white bleach and never got past the orange stage in one go. I would have to give it a rest and do two processes to get yellow so i would stick to dark reds and pinks. It wasnt until I tried a slightly more expensive bleach with silverising pigment added that my hair began lightening to a nice pale yellow in one go. I also now use only 20vol to achieve this. So do try other bleaches if this one isnt getting you past the orange. Different brands will work differently on each person.
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #12 on: 28 Nov 16 / 12:15 AM »
Sorry for my mistake hahahah. I thought it was an irregular verb. Thanks for the english lesson xD
I finally achieved the color!!! I did a 30 vol bleach and then a 10 vol. it looked almost yellow. There was only the right amount of orange left so it didn't look green at the end of the whole process. Then i applied 8-11 with 10 vol and I got the perfect shade!
I'll try on my own hair now. Last time I bleached my hair it lifted to that almost yellow level with only one bleach. (But that time I wanted it white and had to bleach more xD)
I'm using the vario blond extra power, the white one that is supposed to lift up to 8 levels (the blue one only lifts 7 tones).
So hopefully i will only need one bleach.
Thank you for your help!! I'll upload the photos when i hace the results.
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #13 on: 28 Nov 16 / 07:25 AM »
That's a lot of processing for your poor hair. There's no way you should do that much processing in one sitting, or even within a month. It can take weeks for damage to show up from one process, so doing more than that in one go is not the best idea (I know hairdressers do it all the time, they really shouldn't most of the time). I really do hope your hair lifts in one sitting. I really don't like toners that use peroxide either as many have a lot of ammonia in and that's very harsh.

If you've already bleached your hair and know the result, I'm not sure why you're experimenting so much? And on someone else's hair. It's interesting, but ultimately pointless, even if you do end up with the same results. However, I don't really care! Please don't take that as an insult though. It's your life, you can do what you like with it, I just wouldn't bother other than out of interest but with no baring at all with anything I do to my hair. Does that make sense?

And it's perfectly ok about the English lol I have a harder time reading many a native speakers English (I'm not great myself when it comes to spelling and grammer, I work hard at doing better but I'm just not very academic!). I think the sentence didn't quite make sense as a whole so my brain, which was not functioning well that day through lack of sleep (I used to be a chronic insomniac and still am occasionally), decided to just miss it entirely!
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #14 on: 28 Nov 16 / 11:47 AM »
It's ok, i donīt take it as an insult hahaha. I tried on that hair because it was the only hair I had available. My mother cut it a lot, and I saved the strands for this purpose. I was not hurting anyone's hair during the process  ;D
I didn't wanna try on my own hair until I had an approximate idea of how it was gonna look. What if I tried on my hair and ended up with a green strand, or a blorange strand? I have short hair, it was gonna be noticeable xD

BTW, what do you mean by saying  you don't like toners with peroxide and ammonia? The dye I have is not a toner, it's a normal dye, Igora royal. I thought toners were used when you hair is like level 9 or 10, but I don't want it so light, and a toner wouldn't work on level 8. would it?

Thanks for your help, and I'll show the results when I get it done.   *thx*


PD I'm gonna use a product they sell in the shop I buy, it's called colorphlex, (it is like olaplaex and fibreplex), so my hair will receive less damage from the bleach.
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #15 on: 28 Nov 16 / 12:26 PM »
I don't use permanent dyes or toners often for a variety of reasons, so I don't know the names well. If you're going to use a normal dye instead of a toner, that's just as bad, probably even worse.

OK, first, It's really quite dangerous to do two processes right after each other. Not including damage to your hair, you risk serious chemical burns on your scalp. But toners can be used on any level of hair.

Second, toners aren't only for blonde hair, you can get toners for dark hair too. They're literally colour correctors. They tone out unwanted shades in the hair colour. You will be using this dye as a toner.

Third, blonde hair dyes for the most part are strong. They make them to dye darker colours light. You're going to be doing the same process twice basically. You would be much better off using a really good bleach and bleaching it to yellow and then using a direct dye (like Adore which comes in lots of natural shades), silver shampoo or a non permanent ash blonde toner to tone the yellow to ash blonde. I'm afraid I'm not great when it comes to blonde and toning natural shades, so I don't have any recommendations for you right now.

Fourth, don't put too much trust in any of the Olaplex like products. For one, they aren't olaplex and as far as I know they do not work in the same way. Also, Olaplex themselves (and I would assume these other products too, say (to paraphase a little), if you wouldn't do it without olaplex, don't do it with. It's not a miracle product. It's even still debatable if any of them really do what they say they do. There's a lot of anecdotal evidence out there and the science theory is good, but there isn't yet evidence as far as I know yet that it really, truly does what they say. I've been using it myself and I'm far from convinced it's made any difference.
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #16 on: 11 Dec 16 / 05:24 PM »
I did it!! XD this bleach is awesome. In 20 mins my hair was in the orange-yellow stage. My hair is very healthy compared to the last time i bleached, it is soft and healthy but... it didn't turn out as expected. Depending on the source of light it looks too yelow, nothing like the girl on the photo i uploaded. Is there any semipermanent toner I could use  to get that color? I'm gonna wash it with violet shampoo just to try. I toned it with 8-11 as I said with 10 vol peroxide
What should I do?

The photos are blow dried and naturally dried
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #17 on: 14 Dec 16 / 04:16 PM »
This is a bit weird. My hair looks golden, yellow or greenish depending on the source of light. Any help?
 

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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #18 on: 14 Dec 16 / 06:52 PM »
It's the nature of different lighting I'm afraid. Not a lot you can do about it other than always travel with a flattering light source to shine on you at all time ;)
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #19 on: 14 Dec 16 / 08:10 PM »
My hair is naturally dark ash blonde and it looks green under fluorescent lighting, it's just the nature of ash shades.
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Re: Trying to get a level 8 Ash
« Reply #20 on: 15 Dec 16 / 08:03 AM »
Yeah, my natural dark ash brown used to look green in some lights. It's the whole reason I started dying my hair 27 years ago! If it was going to look green then it should be GREEN!
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