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Author Topic: Ash Green / Help!  (Read 2957 times)  Share 

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Ash Green / Help!
« on: 09 May 16 / 12:10 AM »

First of all hi everybody! :)

I feel so blessed to have found this forum because I'm seriously tired of commenting under youtubers' channels for hair advice!

So, my hair was pretty messed up around 2 years ago, i got a color correction done from a weird burgundy/pink/red/mistake I had brought upon myself - back to a nice level 4 brown.

I've kept myself from touching my hair for 2 years, and all of a sudden (which I'm sure all people on this forum will understand) I got gassed up to change the way it looks. I can't possibly rock a shade too light because my complexion is a medium olive tone, and my features (eyebrows, eyelashes) are a dark brown, and I'm not interested in dying them - so my first thought was to give myself some low lights.

Here goes...

My goal: Cool Ashy Green Brown on top with Light ashy green brown/dark blonde balyage. (I know most people fear this color, but I really loove it.)

I purchased Clairol's Frost & Tip, It turned orange because of all the pre-dye , so I toned it with Wella's T14 & T18

My hair came out ridiculously brassy, as expected.  *ott*

 Someone told me to buy violet shampoo which was *nono* because violet shampoo doesn't work unless your hair is light blonde/silver. Just an fyi. (Not to mention it freaking says that on the packaging)

So at this point, I really want the ash green in my hair, I want to rid all "brassiness"

So a couple of weeks go by... During this time I kept my hair up in a pony tail to avoid any weird stares  :D
So I go online and I find Redken's Chromatics collection in the color 6ag 6.17 (Ash green) And I dye my hair over with it with 20% vol, and I finally achieved that green ashy brown I wanted, but it's not as ashy. It's a bit lighter towards the ends.

I then used Black Malva Conditioner from Aveda which stripped all of the brasiness and red out of my hair.

So here's my dilemma.

I want to go a little bit lighter, and I want to have some lowlights, or maybe babylights (correct me if im wrong) I don't want anything extreme, but fairly noticeable.. just little shadows, or effects of lighter hair color.

So I'm thinking of using (for next time i dye)

Scalp, top part of hair
Redken Chromatics 6ag and 8ag mixed with 30% vol with ion's ash intensifier

Towards the bottom
Redken Chromatics 8ag with Redken Color fusion 9ag with 40% vol and ion's ash intensifier.

With information I've gathered online a lot of people are saying 40% wont make a difference, or make it any lighter towards the bottom.

Someone told me to add a bleach packet to my dye and I'm kind of like... :o I think that'd make things worse if anything.

- I don't want to bleach because I feel like bleaching it would be a waste since I'm not trying to go TOO light all over. What does everyone recommend?


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Re: Ash Green / Help!
« Reply #1 on: 10 May 16 / 12:59 PM »
You need to remove all orange tones to show a true ash tone, that's why it doesn't come out ashy enough. Also, if you plan to use 30 or 40 vol on level 4 hair, it will reveal a lot of brassy tones and you'll have to go darker to neutralise it, ash tones always darken the hair.  Ash browns are quite difficult as you first need to neutralise all warmth to get to neutral, then you need to add even more ash for the tone to show and this darkens the result.

Before you process your hair further, consider what you have already. If you have colour corrections in your hair you may have permanent dyes in your hair that require removal first with a reducing colour remover.

When using professional products, it is best not to mix and match as the formulas are balanced for e.g. ammonia, tone, additives so you will not get the best result. So don't mix the Ion ash intensifier with the Redken Chromatics. I wouldn't use a generic peroxide either for the same reason, and also because Chromatics is an oil-based tint (you may have seen Garnier Olia in the shops, it's also oil-based) so the components will be different. Chromatics don't make a 40 vol developer anyway, and 40 vol on already processed hair is likely to damage the hair too much and cause breakage. It's also true that if you only have one level of difference between the ends and the roots, it won't really be noticeable. Take note that vol (volume) and percent (%) are not the same thing or you might make a mistake later. 30 vol is 9%.

You have Black Malva conditioner in your hair, this is a coloured conditioner much like the semi dyes sold on this website. This basically added some dark pigment into the hair, but a couple of clarifying shampoos should take it out, if it hasn't all faded already.

You're thinking of 6ag+8ag (to give 7ag) with 30 vol. On a natural level 4 this would be correct, as you have 3 levels of lift with the 30 vol and the 7ag would be the correct level. I've already mentioned why not to use the Ion ash intensifier, so if you think you will want it more ashy than what you get, I see that Redken's other permanent line, Color Fusion, has a green additive. You could pick a dark ash blonde from Color Fusion and use their green additive. Remember the addition of green will darken the overall result. Bear in mind though if you apply this to the top part of your hair, you will not have the same results on the regrowth and the hair you've already coloured so it might come out unevenly. By the time you are re-doing your hair, if most of the tones have gone it might work, but if it's still strongly coloured you probably need to remove the colour first, and mix up different formulas for each part of your hair with different strengths of peroxide depending on how much each part needs to lift. 

If you want a lowlighted effect or babylights first decide what technique you want to use to accomplish this. For lowlighting you'd need to apply a darker colour in foils or plastic wrap for example, for babylights it's a lighter colour and since you have colour in your hair already you'd need to use bleach.

You'll also need to top up the ash tones as they will fade very quickly. You do not want to go over the hair again with the permanent colours though as this will cause damage. Redken have a Shades EQ range of acidic, non-lifing semis you should find one that can replace the ash tones and top up the colour.

It might be easier to "reset" by using a colour remover to get all of the tint out and see what base you are working with and lighten it further if necessary, add babylights with bleach, and then use demi colours to make the ash green you want. It will then naturally come out lighter on the babylight areas and darker on the rest.

Finally, doing a pre-treatment with 100% coconut oil at least one hour before processing (melt it in your hands, apply enough to cover the hair but not so much it's dripping, do not rinse) will help to protect from peroxide damage and it can be used as a treatment to help repair the hair afterwards (apply 10 min to overnight before shampooing).


  • Guest
Re: Ash Green / Help!
« Reply #2 on: 14 May 16 / 04:49 PM »
thank you so much for your reply & taking time out of your day to write me so much!...I realize that I have to bleach my hair in order for anything to happen.

I think rather then doing anything as redyeing the roots, I'm just going to dye it again with the chromatic's line mix 6ag and 8ag because it does come out the color I want...(on my roots)

So, as for bleach, I decided I want to balyage my hair (as much as Im able to)

Should I use

Manic Panic's 30% or 40% Lightener and tone it with virgin snow?


Tigi's rue Light Zero Dust Powder Light with a 20 or 30% and No toner?

If a toner is needed, what would be correct 1 to use?

-- As you know I do not in any way want a warm tone in my hair, currently it's all ashy.

thank you!!


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